Killing Batteries

Leif Pettersen’s battery-powered rise to the zenith of travel writing rapture
Wed
28
Jan '09

Writers that can’t type unite!!

cat-typingIn the past few months, I’ve made two very serious attempts to learn how to type. Anyone that’s taken the time to read my alternately revealing and unsettling ‘About Me’ page will know that I type with exactly four fingers: the thumb, index and middle fingers on my right hand and the middle finger on my left. That’s it.

This system has worked out very well for me, as anyone who has read one of my 2,000-word posts can fervently confirm. So, I never really considered changing anything until I spent extended time with a few of my fellow writers and saw the true scale of my writing shortcomings. Some of these people type like Commander Data: eyes closed, hands a blur of motion, key clicks like a torrential downpour…

Freelancer Catherine Bodry types about 1,254 words per minute before coffee. Lonely Planet veteran Alex Leviton, who it should be noted has hands and fingers the size of cat paws, can simultaneously type, drink water, sing “Old McDonald Had a Farm” and still average 70 words per minute.

So I decided for the sake of speed, accuracy and impressing girls at very select parties, I’d teach myself how to type properly. It went surprisingly well – for nearly 20 minutes. I was making short work of the typing tutorials that I found online before I realized two things: when I tried to type actual words, not tutorial exercises, my WPM speed dropped from 35 to about eight (after fixing all the typos) and the muscles in my forearms and the backs of my hands went numb faster than when I carry five bags of groceries. I soldiered on for a week, giving myself short lessons, but the hand/arm pain in addition to the new, unnatural brain strain spawning facial tics and leg spasms finally convinced me to give it a rest. So there would be no chance of anyone accusing me of quitting, I created the air-tight alibi of traveling to Thailand and Burma for five weeks. No one was the wiser.

Two weeks ago I started again, using positioning tips that didn’t make my hands go numb right away. Sadly, my desk is way too tall for typing ergonomic perfection, so if I ever wanna type for longer than two minutes, I have to move my laptop to the coffee table. Again, though the tutorials were pretty easy, when it came to typing real words, my WPM became insufferably slow. I began to worry that learning to type like Catherine and Alex would take longer than the delivery of an Italian traffic violation.

Then I found salvation. Well, not true salvation, because Obama is still dragging his feet while science eagerly awaits the thumbs up to start developing a bottomless keg of Strongbow, but close enough. My pal Alexis pointed me to a video interview (below) of Diablo Cody, she of “Juno” screenwriting insta-fame. At the 1:15 mark in the interview, it’s revealed that Diablo has always, and still, types with only two fingers!

What’d I tell you? Two finger typing caught on tape! So two things seem to be readily apparent: 1) literary geniuses can’t type and 2) I am twice as good at typing as Diablo Cody, which may mean that I’m only half the genius, but that’s still better than 90% of the writers in the 21st century, so there. In any case, that’s all I needed to hear to dump this ridiculous typing neurosis for the rest of eternity.

So, now that I’ve dispatched with that predicament, I was wondering it there are there any other writers out there that never bothered to learn proper typing, but have nevertheless written an Oscar-winning screenplay? Or at least carved out a modest career in writing?

Come on. I know you’re out there.

Agonizing over travel insurance? Maybe I can help…

Thu
15
Jan '09

Too funny for my own good

funny_soccer1I’ve been accused twice recently of being too funny for my own good by people in positions to drastically affect my employment, income and success. I can think of innumerable shortcomings in my writing, social skills and general appearance, but being too funny is one criticism that I never expected to hear. So to prove that I’m not too funny, I told both of those people to fuck off.

Not too funny anymore, am I?

In all seriousness (but not really), I have struggled and failed to understand this statement. I feel like I’m being selectively autistic here, because I just can’t seem to grasp the concept. How can anyone be too funny? We live in a world (at least in the US) where poor taste, unrealistically broad demographic targets and willful stupidity has resulted in far too much unfunny crap in our daily lives. Even, ironically, when the intended goal is to be funny. Which, in a sick way, is kind of funny, but not in a way that will cause cider to unintentionally explode out of your nose. More like one of those laughing-sobbing hybrid moments that tend to happen when I turn on network ‘sitcoms’, any morning radio show or the Dane Cook concert Comedy Central airs four times a day.

Let me put it another way. When was the last time you put down a book or walked out of movie because it was too funny? Has anyone ever been hospitalized or sued for being too funny? No, they have not. On the contrary, it appears that laughing may actually cure serious illnesses! Are you people telling me that the power to cure cancer isn’t within your demographics? What other potentially healthful features are outside of your target audience? Fresh air? Common sense? Washing one’s hands after taking a massive dump at their job in the food service industry?

I need to be funny. Being funny is second only to being smart on the list of desirable attributes for writers. And seeing as how about 70% of writers in the English-speaking world have neither, I should damn well be winning prizes and dating a b-list movie star. As it is, I don’t even have a wikipedia page yet, so I guess my perspective on the industry is not a popular one. Incidentally, no one has ever accused me of being too smart.

Furthermore, unless it contains critical information about the world or something that will prevent me from accidentally killing myself, I usually don’t bother reading anything that isn’t at least mildly entertaining. Honestly, why write anything if you don’t intend to entertain at least a little? This is why I only read the BBC and the Guardian UK, instead of any of the crap news publications here in the US. Also, because those guys are more likely to get the story right.

It’s not like being funny is a superpower that I can’t control. I’m not going to involuntarily go into a funny supernova and destroy the city like at the end of the first season of “Heroes”. If the situation calls for it, I’m more than capable of writing in a (mostly) unfunny tone, so as not to imperil my hapless readers. I wrote user guides for the Federal Reserve System for years and, I assure you, no one ever cracked a smile while reading those things. If they were ever read at all, which is unlikely considering the phone calls I got.

Fine. Some people don’t want funny. That’s their prerogative. I’m a professional. I’ll do the job that you ask me to do. To that end, as proof of my ability to write straight, serious text, I present the following sample:

This is me writing unfunny text. See how unfunny it is? Here’s more unfunny text. Now I’m making it even less funny. It’s almost painfully unfunny now. I think I’m gonna be sick. So. Very. Cold. Oh the humanity!

But you know who doesn’t think I’m too funny? Australians. I have a very strong following in Australia, because unlike the pansies in other countries that rhyme with the ‘United States’ and ‘England’ (nor am I too subtle) Aussies have guts when it comes to humor. Which is why I’m probably a lock for the Best Job in the World. If you have an internet connection, and by reading this I assume you do, then you’ve undoubtedly heard about the caretaker job on Hamilton Island on the Great Barrier Reef about a dozen times this week. The successful applicant will have all expenses paid while they feed fish for about 12 hours a month, in between their potentially hilarious duties of snorkeling, diving and sailing, while blogging about it all once a week for the tidy sum of US$103,000 for six months.

Well suckers, the contest is effectively over, because I’m entering and there ain’t anyone else more qualified than me. I’m apparently a borderline prohibitively funny writer, I’ve got this made-for-TV face and rear end, I’ve never accidentally killed a fish in my life and when it comes to getting paid a lot of money to do fun stuff, I have no equal.

But hey, I’m a fair guy and I don’t mind a little competition, so if you think you can do this job better than me, by all means, click here to sign up for the job.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to go sniff glue until I can’t tell funny from linoleum, take my cliché and hyperbole herbal supplements, then write a pitch to an in-flight magazine. Don’t tell me I’m not professional.

Agonizing over travel insurance? Maybe I can help…

Tue
6
Jan '09

So! Thailand and Burma!

I’m not gonna lie to you. This was a taxing trip on many levels, despite being a mere five weeks long. Even though all the protests and bombs and airport closures in Thailand never affected me directly, there was a definite feeling in the air, particularly in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, that made one feel as if they were only moments away from being involved in something terrible. When a car backfired next to the night market in Chiang Mai, I (along with hundreds of other people) was fully prepared to run for my life. Definitive proof that I have no business traveling in war zones and areas of unrest. I’m too goosey.

Burma (Myanmar), on the other hand, is… Burma. The stress one feels here, as a visitor, is different. Statistically, it’s one of the safest places in SE Asia, and probably the world, in so far as crime and personal safety. Myanmar probably also has the highest rate of Easy Smiles on the planet. Nevertheless, you can’t help but feel an empathetic anxiety of sorts about the poverty, random and ruthless ‘justice’ and utter helplessness to the whims of a batshit crazy, alarmingly stupid and straight-up evil leadership. Though I guess the same could be said of my country in recent years. Also, there’s the matter of the least comfortable chairs and beds known to man. A few days of sitting and sleeping on slates of wood, or slates of wood covered by a cookie-thin pad, and you feel as if you’ve been disciplined by a Singaporean dominatrix.

In any case, having rested and processed the entire trip – and gained back the five pounds I lost – I’d like to share some of the better photos with you now. I’m sorry, but I have no intention of travelogueing the trip. It was meant to be my first pure, responsibility-free, personal vacation in over three years and that’s how I intend to keep it.

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Wats in Thailand, as large, intricate, colorful and glorious as they are, all start to look the same after you’ve seen several dozen of them. Not so with this place I stumbled into in Chiang Mai with man-sized lawn ornaments of animals and Disney characters.

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One of the precious few pictures of me from the trip, here I am, long before any hint of a suntan appeared, kayaking through the Salak Kok mangrove forest on Ko Chang. [Photo by Catherine Bodry]

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Here’s one of the cabins I stayed in on Ko Mak. They were all about the same, really: tiny, ramshackle, ant-infested, hard beds, cold water, outdoor toilet/shower, yet still somehow utterly charming and idyllic.

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This was the beach in front of the above cabin on Ko Mak. Standing there, you felt compelled to seriously reconsider what you formerly thought were the priorities in your life.

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Another pic of me. Many, many hours were spent in hammocks while I was ‘exploring’ Thai islands. [Photo by Catherine Bodry]

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This is a plate of chicken and cashews that was served to me in Bago, Myanmar. You have to imagine being in dusty, provincial, noisy, unflattering central Bago, walking out of that setting into a hole-in-the-wall, kinda filthy place and being presented with this surgically cut, artistically plated meal, made to resemble a fish, of all things. Burma never ceases to amaze.

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This is Shwemawdaw Paya in Bago. Some 114 meters (374 feet) tall and the ultimate orientation tool (should you ever somehow get lost in Bago), the original structure is said to be over 1,000 years old, though earthquakes have repeatedly caused partial and near-total destruction. Reconstruction of the current stupa was completed in 1954.

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Mind-bendingly large (his little finger alone is 3.05 meters, or 10 feet, long ), yet still nowhere near the largest in Burma, the Shwethalyaung Reclining Buddha in Bago is primarily noted for being the most lifelike of the recliners. Having been ravaged and forgotten for centuries, the current incarnation was completed 1903, with restoration in the 1930s, when a giant ‘pillow’ was added, decorated with mosaics in Italian marble.

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This is Golden Rock, near Kinpun in southeast Myanmar. Dramatically set on Mt. Kyaikto, legend has it that the precariously balanced boulder maintains its position thanks to a judiciously placed Buddha hair in its stupa. It’s one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Burma and is appropriately – and literally – a royal pain in the ass to get to. There’s a rollicking, unnecessarily violent, ass-pounding, back-of-a-truck ride up the mountain involved that still makes me weep when I think about it.

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On the subject of things that are hard to get to, let’s take a minute to talk about Mrauk U. Pinkies aren’t allowed to overland to this part of the country, lest they see all the naughty things the government has going on in the region, so first one must cough up plane fare for a flight from Yangon to Sittwe, then one must weather the hard-sell by the single most pushy ‘tour guide’ in Myanmar while they over-night in Sittwe and arrange a very slow and relatively expensive boat the next day up to Mrauk U where the pushy tour guide’s protégée meets all incoming boats to continue the fast-talking, high commission hard sell of services. Nonetheless, once you’ve charged through that ugliness, Mrauk U is a pretty spectacular place, as evidenced by the above photo.

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Temples dot the landscape in Mrauk U. Not as numerous or gargantuan as Bagan, but with the townspeople living and working around these things, it gives the place a hell of a lot more character.

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Inside one of the temples. Buddha images never get old.

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Like I said, people are literally living in the shadows of these ancient temples.

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A local kid throws a gang sign.

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Central Mrauk U.

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Mrauk U transforms in appearance from ‘provincial’ to ‘bamboo jungle’ rather quickly as you move away from the central market.

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I took a full day boat tour upriver out of Mrauk U of the nearby Chin villages. Apart from the full-on experience of the villages themselves, the main attraction here are the women with tattooed faces. This practice was started centuries ago to intentionally uglify women so invaders from India would stop carrying them off. The tattoos were usually applied in one sadistic sitting, right around age seven. It’s no longer a problem these days, so a handful of elderly women are the only remaining evidence of the practice.

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A school in one of the villages.

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Kids came out to gawk at the visiting Pinkies.

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There was a lot of kids carrying around siblings a mere year or two younger than they were.

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One of our quieter moments in the villages. All the houses were stilted.

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I present Ngapali Beach, Myanmar: one of the most beautiful and empty stretches of beach in Asia and probably the world. The anti-government demonstrations of 2007 and the cyclone in May of 2008 has all but killed what little tourist numbers that Burma usually gets. By my quick and lazy count, about 40 people were spread over three kilometers (almost two miles) of pristine beach. Totally dead. I pitied the empty and despondent resorts, restaurants and souvenir hawkers, but secretly I was in heaven.

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The beach was a shortcut for locals hauling wood from the far end to the fishing village.

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Guys in the nearby fishing village preparing nets.

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Here I am in the back of a ‘bus’ in Yangon. You can’t tell, but I’m actually crying here because my poor ass can’t take another minute.

Agonizing over travel insurance? Maybe I can help…