Bagan: In which the author starts to discover the upper limits of ass torture that a human can endure, barely fights off repeated bouts of dehydration, finds himself in the un-amusing position of having less cash than most of the destitute locals, decides to walk through one of the most impressive expanses of temples in the world, switches to a bicycle, finds misery at a higher speed to be no less objectionable, concludes touring one of the most amazing destinations that he’s ever seen, eats well, teaches irresponsible English slang to bystanders, then after being outsmarted by his own Palm Pilot, manages to uncharacteristcally depart on something more closely approximating normal transport.