But if so, how do they know about how much gas it would take to “fill” my tank? Because the amount on the pump is usually pretty accurate–what I was expecting. But then my tank is mysteriously not full when I drive away.

Mysteries of Mexico…

Anyway, I’m not saying bribe situations don’t happen in Mexico, Leif. I’m just saying I doubt it’s on the rise, and it’s not as “random” as people say–cops for the most part seem to pull over people who’ve actually violated the law.

And if anything, the drug war has probably helped the situation (small comfort!), as there are so many federales and checkpoints all over the place now. It gives the local cops very little opportunity.

I had not heard that term until I read Tim Cahill’s great travelogue of the ultimate road trip, Road Fever, in which he provides the historical origin of that term.

I have traveled by vehicle many times in Mexico, primarily from Cancun, south towards the border with Belize, and throughout Baja, from Tijuana to Cabo.

We have been stopped in the middle of nowhere by very young men with very big guns with some form of the military, who have done very cursory inspections of our over-stuffed camper shell full of camping gear, and have never been asked for anything other than an answer to the question, “Got any drugs or guns?”

We have been stopped in small towns by people asking for money for some type of Red (white?) Cross, where a few pesos results in a small sticker in the side wing window.

We have been ripped off by Pemex attendants, who continue to “outsmart” me while pumping our petrol.

We have been asked if we want to upgrade our sub-compact rental car in Baja to a full-sized Jeep for $100 cash (which, for almost two weeks, was a huge bargain).

We did get the new “No Bribe” card from a Cancun rental agency, and luckily did not have to use it.

We have had random fruits and vegetables confiscated at roadside checks, which I was convinced matched a grocery shopping list the guy’s wife gave him that morning.

While I admittedly, sometimes travel in trepidation of the small-town police, we have yet to suffer being detained or nagged for the mordida.

As to Zora “feeling bad” for the reputation of Mexico due to violence, while I continue to visit a beautiful country, I don’t see how anyone can dispute the rampant drug violence. I have just missed deadly incidents in Ixtapa and Cancun. Yes, tourists are not the primary target, but I do not wish to become a collateral causality. It is a little early for the “failed state” label, but on any given day, I am not sure who is winning the war.

I agree with you, Leif: it “depends” on how lucky you are and how you “perform” under pressure.

This is not to say that cops don’t ask for bribes there–I recently polled friends on Facebook, as well as my fellow guidebook authors for the Rough Guide to Mexico book. I came up with a stunning three anecdotes in the past ten years. And these anecdotes were all based on the driver actually having done something wrong in the first place!

But the Cancun car rental association does acknowledge it’s an issue, and has started giving drivers vouchers to pay traffic tickets (usually about US$50) on the spot. (Bribe opportunities come in because tickets need to be paid in person at the town hall, and tourists don’t want to give up their precious beach time… Corruption takes two!) Then drivers pay for the tickets at the rental agency when they return the car.

Sorry for the rant, but I feel bad for Mexico always being depicted as a pit of corruption, violence and failed statehood. It ain’t the case.